Next, the paste is partially cleaned off, and the scratches rubbed out by rubbing each back in the direction of its length with the end of a cutting or backing board.

Finally, the backs are rubbed clean and dry with a handful of paper shavings, and most binders then apply a coating of thin glue thereto. Some binders, especially in the country, prefer to screw the books up in the laying-press, three or four together, with backing or cutting boards between each, and then scratch them up, subsequently gluing the back of each, and blocking up in the standing-press, where they should be left all night.

It is well to put a piece of waste paper inside the millboard, to prevent the pasted bands sticking to the end-papers.

Before concluding this chapter, we think it well to specify the different kinds of millboard which the amateur would require for the boards of his book. The quality of these will depend in a material degree upon the kind of binding he is desirous of adopting. If for leather work, it will be well for him to buy the best quality millboards, which will cost him from 32s. to 40s. per cwt., according to his market. These are made of the best old ropes and sacking, and, from having much tar in them, are very dark brown, mottled with black. They are also so 'Well rolled at the mills that they are extremely hard, and the labor of cutting them is considerable. The inferior kind will do very well for cloth or half roan books. They are much lighter in color, being a kind of dull grey, and very much softer. These are about 20s. per cwt., or even less, Lastly come the strawboards, which are made of straw instead of hemp. These are much used now for common bindings, 3Ild are hard and smooth, but 80 brittle that they cannot be recommended. If a volume bound in strawboard fall to the ground, the corners are mostly so bruised that the book is irretrievably spoiled; but a good millboard will stand this casualty.

Strawboards cost about 10s. per cwt. All boards can be obtained of Messrs. Eadie and Messrs. Corfield, whom we previously mentioned, and of other dealers.

Boards are divided, according to their thickness, into what are called "ten penny" (the thickest), "X" and "XX," eight penny," "seven penny," and" tip" (the thinnest). The tyro should ask the dealer of whom he buys to show him the different denominations, and remember them, as it may be useful to him in ordering. He had better give his first order for a 1/2cwt. or 1/4cwt. "assorted." "Tip" is excellent for lining board. Thus, instead of using millboard of the proper thickness for a certain book, it is far better to use one rather thinner, and paste a thickness of tip on. This causes the board to have an inclination to concavity, which keeps the book compact.

It must be carefully remembered that the lined side of a lined board, or the side on which the thinnest board is pasted in a "made" board, must always be put next the book, otherwise the boards, instead of curving inwards, will have a tendency to turn outwards at the corners.

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