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The Art of Bookbinding
by Joseph W. Zaehnsdorf
3rd Edition Published in London 1897
the head-band cords were drawn in through the boards, and thus gave greater strength to the book than the
method used at the present day.  To explain how the head-band is worked is rather a difficult task; yet the
process is a very simple one.  The great difficulty is to get the silks to lie close together, which they will not do if
the twist or beading is not evenly worked.  This requires time and patience to accomplish.  The hands must be
clean or the silk will get soiled; fingers must be smooth or the silk will be frayed.  

Suppose, for instance, a book is to be done in two colours, red and white.  The head-band is cut to size, the book
is, for convenience, held in a press or a plough with the knife taken out, so that the end to be head-banded is
raised to a convenient height.  The ends of the silk or cotton are to be joined together, and one, say the red,
threaded through a strong needle.  This is then passed through the back of the book, at about the centre of the
second section, commencing on the left of the book.  This must be passed through twice, and a loop left.  The
vellum is put in this loop and the silk drawn tightly, the vellum will then be held fast.  The white is now to be
twisted round the red once, and round the head-band twice; the red is now to be taken in hand and twisted
round the white once, and the head-band twice; and this is to be done until the whole vellum is covered.  The
needle must be passed through the back at about every eight sections to secure the head-band.  The beading is
the effect of one thread being twisted over the other, and the hand must be kept exactly the same tightness or
tension, for if pulled too tightly the beading will go underneath, or be irregular.  The fastening off is to be done by
passing the needle through the back twice, the white is then passed round the red and under the vellum, and the
ends are to be tied together.
Three Colours Plain
This is to be commenced in the same way as with two, but great care must be taken in that the silks are worked
in rotation so as not to mix or entangle them.  The silks must be kept in the left hand, while the right twists the
colour over or round, and as each is twisted round the vellum it is passed to be twisted round the other two.  In
fastening off, both colours must be passed round under the vellum and fastened as with the two colour pattern.

The head-bands may be worked intermixed with gold or silver thread, or the one colour may be worked a number
of times round the vellum, before the second colour has been twisted, giving it the appearance of ribbons going
round the head-band.

With regard to stuck-on head-bands, the binder my make them at little expense, by using striped calico for the
purpose.  A narrow stripe is to be preferred of some bright colour.  The material must be cut into lengths of about
one-and-a-half inch wide, with the stripes across.  Cords of different thickness are then to be cut somewhat
longer than the calico, and apiece of the cord is to be fastened by a nail at one end on a board of sufficient
length.  The calico is then to be pasted and laid down on the board under the cord, and the cord being held tightly
may be easily covered with the striped calico, and rubbed with a folder into a groove.

When this is dry, the head and tail of the book is glued and the proper place of the head-band is put on.  Or the
head-band may be purchased, as before stated, worked with either silk or cotton ready for fastening on, from
about 2s. 3d. to 4s. 6d. a piece of twelve yards, according to the size required: it has, however, the disadvantage
of not looking so even as a head-band worked on the book.  I have lately seen some specimens as good
imitations of hand-worked ones as it is possible for machinery to manufacture.

After the head-band has been put on or worked, the book is to be “lined up” or “made ready for covering.”
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