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The Art of Bookbinding
by Joseph W. Zaehnsdorf
3rd Edition Published in London 1897
A saucer should be placed near at hand, with water and a piece
of rag or a sponge in it, to cool any tool and reduce it to its
proper heat before using.  If the tool be used too hot, the gold
impression will be dull; if too cold, the gold will not adhere.  To
use all tools of the exact degree of heat required is one of the
experiences of the skilled workman.  The back is now ready for
the title.  Set up the proper words in a type-case, of a type
sufficiently large and suitable to the book.  The chief word of the
title should be in somewhat larger size than the rest, and
others diminishing, so that a pleasant arrangement of form be
attained.  In order to adjust the length of the words, it may be
necessary to space some of them-that is, to put between each
letter a small piece of metal called a space.  Square the type, or
make the face of the letters perfectly level, by pressing the face
of them against a flat surface before tightening the screw.  They
must be exactly level on with another, or in the working some of
them will be invisible.  Screw up the type-case, warm it over the
finishing stove, and work the letters carefully in blind as a
guide.  Damp the whole of the lettering space with vinegar.  When dry, pencil the impressions in twice with glaire.  
Then lay the gold on and work them in gold.

But with lead type and a spring type-case ( a method more suitable for some binders on account of its relative
cheapness and the convenience of the case fitting itself to the different sizes of the type, of which the binder will want
a selection of various sizes), the type-case must be warmed before the type is put in.  The heat of the case should
impart sufficient heat for the type to be worked properly.  If the case and type be put on the stove, the type will
probably be melted if not watched very narrowly.  Hand letters are melted if not watched very narrowly.  Hand letters
fixed in handles, each used as a single tool.  The letters should be arranged in alphabetical order round the finishing
stove, and as each letter is wanted it is taken from the order, worked, and replaced.  They are still very much used in
England, but where two or more books are to have the same lettering, brass type is very much better.  It does its
work more uniformly than hand letters, however skillfully used.

When this simple finishing can be executed properly and with ease, a more difficult task of finishing may be attempted,
such as full gilt back.  This is done in two ways, a “run-up” back and a “mitred” back.  As a general rule morocco is
always mitred.  Place the book on its side, life up the mill-board, and make a mark head and tail on the back, a little
away from the hinge of the back.  Then with a folder and straight edge mark the whole length of the back: this is to
be done on both sides.  Make another line the whole length down the exact centre of the back.  With a pair of dividers
take the measurement of the spaces between the bands, and mark the size, head and tail, for the panels from the
top and bottom band; with a folder and strip of parchment make a line across the back, head and tail, at the mark
made by the dividers.  Work a thin broad and narrow pallet alongside the bands in blind.  Prepare the whole of the
back with vinegar and glaire, as above described, but lay the glaire on with a sponge.  When dry, lay the gold on,
covering the whole of the back with it, mending any breaks.  For mitering, take a two-lined pallet that has the ends
cut at an angle of 45 º, so that the joint at that angle may be perfect.
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