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by Joseph W. Zaehnsdorf
Published in London 1897
the other side about a quarter of an inch . The paper is now pasted with not too thick paste, and the board laid on
the paper with the cut edge towards the portion to be turned over. It is now taken up with the paper adhering, and
laid down on the paper with the paper side upwards, and rubbed well down; it is then again turned over and the
paper adhering, remembering always that the paper must be pasted all over very evenly, for it cannot be expected
to adhere if it is not pasted properly.
When the books are very thick, two boards must be pasted together, not only to get the proper thickness, but for
strength, for a made board is always stronger than s single one. If a board has to be made, a thick and a somewhat
thinner board should be fastened together with paste. Paste both boards and put them in the standing press for
the night. Great pressure should not be put on at first, but after allowing them to set for a few minutes, pull down
the press as tight as possible. When placing made boards to the book, the thinner one should always be next the
book. It may be taken as a general rule that a thinner board when pasted will always draw a thicker one.
When the boards are lined on one side only it is usual to turn half an inch of the paper over the square or cut edge,
and the lined side must be placed next the book.
Many binders line the mill-board all over the paper before cutting; this may save time, but the edge of the board at
the joint is liable to be abraised, and the resulting joint uneven.
The boards when lined should be laid about or stood up to dry, and when dry, cut to the proper and exact size for
the book. As a fact, the black boards now sold are much too new or green to be used direct by the binder; they
should be stocked for some month.
The requisite width is obtained by extending the compass from the back of the book to the edge of the smallest bolt
or fold in the foredge. It is advisable not to measure less than this point, but to leave a leaf or two in order to show
that the book is not cut down. The compasses being fixed by means of the side screw, the boards are to be knocked
up even, compassed up and placed in the lying press, in which they are cut, using, as before, the “cut against,” and
placing the runner exactly to the compass holes. When cut they are to be tested by turning one round and putting
them together again; if they are the least out of truth it will be apparent at once. The head or top of the boards is
next to be cut by placing a square against the back and marking the head or top with a bodkin or point of a knife.
The boards being quite straight are again put into the press and cut, and when taken out should be again proved by
reversing them as before, and if not true they must be recut. The length is now taken from the head of the book to
the tail, and in this some judgment must be used. If the book has already been cut the measure must be somewhat
larger than the book, allowing only such an amount of paper to be cut off as will make the edge smooth. If,
however, the book is to be entirely uncut, the size of the book is measured, and in addition the portion called
squares must be added.
When a book has not been cut, the amount that is to be cut off the head will give the head or top square, and the
book being measured from the head, another square or projection must be added to it, and the compass set to one
of the shortest leaves in the book. Bearing in mind the article on trimming, enough of the book only should be cut to
give the edge solidity for either gilding or marbling. A few leaves should always be left not cut with the plough, to
show that the book has not been cut down. The few leaves are called proof, and are always a mark of careful work.
About twenty years ago it was the mode to square the foredge of the boards, then lace or draw them in, and to cut
the head and tail of the boards and book together, then to turn up and cut the foredge of the book.
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