The rods should slope so as to allow the water to run gradually towards the bottom of the book, and if the back is to be left plain it must be covered with a piece of millboard or straw board shaped to suit.

To avoid the scum which is caused by the beating of the brushes over the colors, it is better to rub the ends of the bristles on the palm of the hand on which a little olive oil has been spread. The brushes should be such as are used for sprinkling edges, and should be bound with iron rings. A bunch of quills or birch rods will also be required for throwing on the water. For ordinary work, with the book on the rods, throw on the water in large drops until these unite. Then a number of fine streaks are produced by throwing colour evenly over the entire cover, using a brush charged with brown liquid and beaten on the press-pin as when sprinkling edges. Afterwards the black liquid must be similarly thrown over. This must be done quickly; in fact, while the water continues to run.

Marbling water should be soft, and should have added to it a few drops of salts of tartar. Brown colour is prepared by dissolving ½ lb. of salts of tartar in 1 quart of water. For black colour, dis­solve ½ lb. of green copperas in 2 quarts of water. A good blue colour may be prepared by mixing 1 oz. of powdered indigo with 2 oz. of oil of vitriol and letting it stand for twenty four hours and then add­ing 12 oz. of pure water. One of the best yellow colors is prepared from hay saffron. Put a small quantity in a cup or similar vessel, fill up with water and set beside a hot stove and allow to infuse. The quantities are immaterial, as the liquid can be made of whatever strength desired by simply adding water to the stock solution, which should be kept in a bottle. For green colour, liquid blue and yellow mixed will suit all purposes. For red colour, boil ½ lb. of Brazil wood and 8 gr. of nutgalls, both powdered, in 3 pints of water; let it boil for a considerable time until it is reduced about one third, and then add 1 oz. each of powdered alum and salammoniac, and when dissolved strain through a sieve. This must always be used warm. Orange colour is produced from red and yellow liquid.

These colors should all be kept in well corked bottles and in a dark place, if possible. They can be used full strength or diluted with water if desired.

In addition, an acid of some kind is necessary for the work. The safest to use is oxalic acid, of which a saturated solution should be kept in use; a few drops only should be added to the water. The proportion should not exceed one of acid in twenty of water, otherwise the leather may be corroded or destroyed.

For walnut effect, throw on the water in large spots and then quickly sprinkle with brown first, and afterwards with black. For cedar, sprinkle as for walnut, and, before the cover is perfectly dry, in various places on the cover daub lightly with an open-holed sponge dipped in orange so as to form a cloud effect. When this is dry, apply red as nearly as possible on the same places, and when perfectly dry give the whole two or three coats of yellow, taking care that each coat penetrates evenly into the leather. For mahogany, act as for walnut, but sprinkle the black more boldly and, when the work is dry, give two or three coats of red. For box, the boards must be bent in five or six different places; then proceed as for walnut. After the work is perfectly dry throw water in large drops and sprinkle small spots with weak blue; when the work is dry, apply red with a sponge as directed for the cedar. Finally, when dry give two or three coats of orange.

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